Unit 2: Warp/weft weight & cover factor calculations
Fabric Quality Analysis notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 401-20)
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Unit summary
Planning a fabric order means calculating how much warp and weft yarn is needed and how densely the fabric is covered. This unit covers warp and weft weight for a required length and width, reed width and tape length, and warp and weft cover factor.
After this unit you can
- Calculate warp and weft weight for an order
- Calculate reed width and tape length
- Define and calculate cover factor
- Relate cover factor to fabric properties
PTU syllabus topics
- Warp and weft weight calculation to produce required fabric length and width
- calculating reed width and tape length
- wrap/weft cover factor definition and calculation
Warp weight (g)
(Total ends × warp length in m × (1 + crimp)) / (Ne × 1.693)
A count of 1 Ne = 1.693 m per gram
Cover factor (Ne)
EPI / √Ne
Cloth cover factor
K1 + K2 − (K1 × K2 / 28)
Reed width
Fabric width × (1 + weft crimp)
Topic 1
Warp weight calculation
Total ends
EPI × fabric width (inches) + extra selvedge ends
Warp length
Fabric length × (1 + crimp %) plus wastage
Warp weight (kg)
Total ends × warp length (m) ÷ (Ne × 1,693)
Alternatively
Ends × length (m) × tex ÷ 1,000,000 kg
Example
1,000 m of fabric, 58-inch width, 132 EPI, 40s warp, 8% crimp: ends = 7,656; warp length = 1,080 m; weight = 7,656 × 1,080 ÷ (40 × 1,693) ≈ 122 kg (before wastage).
Topic 2
Weft weight calculation
Weft length
PPI × reed width (inches) × fabric length converted to inches (or picks per metre × reed width in metres × fabric length)
Weft weight (kg)
Total weft length (m) ÷ (Ne × 1,693)
Example
Same order with 72 PPI, 40s weft and reed width 62 inches (1.575 m): picks per metre = 72 × 39.37 ≈ 2,835; weft length for 1,000 m of fabric = 2,835 × 1.575 × 1,000 ≈ 44.65 lakh m; weight = 44,65,000 ÷ (40 × 1,693) ≈ 66 kg, plus 2–3% wastage.
Topic 3
Reed width and tape length
- Reed width: the width of warp in the reed, wider than finished fabric because weft crimp and shrinkage narrow it. Reed width = fabric width × (1 + weft crimp % + shrinkage allowance).
- Reed count (Stockport): number of dents per 2 inches; ends per dent typically 2. Reed count = EPI × 2 ÷ ends per dent.
- Tape length: length of warp on the beam = required fabric length × (1 + warp crimp %) + loom wastage (knotting, gaiting, cut-off).
Topic 4
Cover factor
- Cover factor expresses the fraction of the fabric area covered by yarns — higher values give denser, more opaque, windproof fabrics.
Warp cover factor (K1)
EPI ÷ square root of warp Ne
Weft cover factor (K2)
PPI ÷ square root of weft Ne
Fabric cover factor
K1 + K2 − (K1 × K2 ÷ 28)
Maximum value
About 28 (fully covered) in this system
Example
132 × 72 with 40s × 40s: K1 = 132 ÷ 6.32 = 20.9; K2 = 72 ÷ 6.32 = 11.4; fabric cover = 20.9 + 11.4 − (20.9 × 11.4 ÷ 28) = 23.8.
- Uses: comparing fabrics of different counts and densities, designing poplin vs sheeting, controlling air permeability.
Key terms
- Reed width
- Width of warp in the reed
- Reed count
- Dents per unit width of the reed
- Tape length
- Length of warp needed on the beam
- Cover factor
- Measure of how fully yarns cover fabric area
- Wastage
- Extra yarn lost in processing
Quick revision
- Total ends; warp length with crimp; warp weight formula.
- Weft length from picks and reed width; weft weight.
- Reed width; reed count; ends per dent; tape length.
- K1, K2, fabric cover factor; uses.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.Why is warp length longer than fabric length?
- Q2.Why is reed width wider than fabric width?
- Q3.What is reed count?
- Q4.Define cover factor.
- Q5.Calculate K1 for 100 EPI and 25s warp.
- Q6.What does a higher cover factor mean?
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Explain warp and weft weight calculations for a fabric order.
- Q2.Explain reed width, reed count and tape length.
- Q3.Explain cover factor with calculations.
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