Unit 1: Fabric identification & properties
Fabric Studies notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 303-20)
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Unit summary
Knowing fabrics well lets a designer choose the right one. This unit describes how fabrics are identified and what appearance, construction, finish, performance, care and end use are for common fabrics.
After this unit you can
- Identify fabrics by appearance, hand and simple tests
- Describe the construction, performance and care of common fabrics
- Match fabrics to end uses and stitching needs
PTU syllabus topics
- Appearance
- identification methods
- basic construction or finishing technique
- performance
- maintenance and end-use of basic fabrics studied in alphabetic order (e.g. alpaca, batiste, broadcloth)
- points to consider while stitching
- using and washing each fabric
Cotton and linen
Quickly, yellow flame
Burning paper; soft grey ash
Wool and silk
Slowly, curls away from flame
Burning hair; crushable black bead
Polyester
Melts and shrinks from flame
Sweet chemical smell; hard bead
Nylon
Melts and drips
Celery-like smell; hard grey bead
Topic 1
Identifying fabrics
- 1
Look at the face and back
- 2
Feel the hand
- 3
Check the structure (woven, knit, non-woven)
- 4
Unravel yarns
- 5
Burn test fibre
- 6
Note finish and weight
| Fibre | Burning behaviour | Smell | Ash |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton, linen | Burns quickly, keeps burning | Burning paper | Soft grey ash |
| Wool, silk | Burns slowly, self-extinguishes | Burnt hair | Crushable black bead |
| Polyester | Melts, burns with smoky flame | Sweet | Hard bead |
| Nylon | Melts and drips | Celery | Hard grey bead |
| Acetate, viscose | Viscose burns like cotton; acetate melts | Vinegar (acetate) | Hard bead (acetate) |
Exam tip
Do burn tests only with small samples, tweezers and a bowl of water. The test identifies the fibre, not the blend ratio.
Topic 2
Properties and care of common fabrics
| Fabric | Construction and feel | Performance | Care | End use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alpaca | Soft, lustrous hair fibre fabric | Warm, light, resistant to wrinkles | Dry clean or gentle hand wash | Sweaters, coats |
| Batiste | Fine, light plain weave in cotton | Breathable, can wrinkle | Gentle wash, warm iron | Blouses, lingerie, handkerchiefs |
| Broadcloth | Dense, plain weave with fine ribs | Smooth, durable | Machine wash, iron | Shirting, pyjamas |
| Chiffon | Sheer, light, crepe-twisted yarns | Frays and slips | Hand wash or dry clean | Scarves, evening wear |
| Denim | Warp-faced twill, indigo warp | Durable, shrinks | Wash inside out | Jeans, jackets |
| Georgette | Crinkly, sheer, crepe yarns | Drapes, frays | Dry clean | Sarees, kurtas |
| Velvet | Cut-pile with dense short pile | Rich, crushes | Dry clean, steam | Evening wear, furnishing |
Weight in grams per square metre rises from sheer chiffon to heavy denim; drape generally falls with weight and stiffness
Points to consider while stitching: use the right needle and thread, test seam and finish edges for fraying fabrics. While using: check fastness, shrinkage and abrasion for end use. While washing: follow the care label for temperature, bleach and drying.
Key terms
- Hand
- Feel of a fabric
- Drape
- How fabric hangs
- Burn test
- Fibre identification by flame
- Crepe yarn
- Highly twisted yarn
- End use
- Intended purpose of a fabric
Quick revision
- Identification: look, feel, structure, burn test.
- Match fabric to end use and care.
- Always test a swatch before cutting.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.What is a burn test?
- Q2.How does silk burn?
- Q3.Name a sheer fabric.
- Q4.What is denim?
- Q5.Why check shrinkage?
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Describe how fabrics are identified.
- Q2.Explain the properties and end uses of five fabrics.
Stuck on this unit?
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