Unit 1: Layout, marking and cutting
Fabric Handling notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 311-20)
On this page
Unit summary
Layout, marking and cutting decide material use and quality of a garment. This unit explains layout rules, marking methods, cutting tools and seams with their finishes.
After this unit you can
- State rules for fabric layout and marking
- Choose cutting tools and methods
- Classify seams and seam finishes
- Estimate fabric consumption
PTU syllabus topics
- Introduction to layout
- marking and cutting
- different types of seams and seam finishing
- 1
Pre-shrink and press the fabric
- 2
Find the grain
Straight, cross, bias
- 3
Lay out pattern pieces
Grain line parallel to selvedge
- 4
Pin and mark
Notches, darts
- 5
Cut accurately
- 6
Transfer markings
Topic 1
Layout, marking and cutting
- 1
Check fabric for defects
- 2
Spread (lay) the fabric
- 3
Place pattern pieces (layout)
- 4
Mark
- 5
Cut
- 6
Bundle and label
Layout rules: align the grain line with the selvedge, keep nap or pile in one direction, match checks and stripes, place larger pieces first, and keep small pieces between them to save fabric.
| Tool | Use |
|---|---|
| Tailor's chalk, marking pencil | Marks that brush off |
| Tracing wheel and carbon paper | Transfers pattern lines on the wrong side |
| Fabric shears | Long straight cuts |
| Pinking shears | Zigzag edge that limits fraying |
| Rotary cutter | Cutting multiple layers or curves accurately |
A tight layout can cut fabric waste by 5–10% and so reduces the cost of each garment
Topic 2
Seams and seam finishes
A seam joins two or more fabric pieces. Seam choice depends on fabric, garment and use.
| Seam | Construction | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Plain (open) seam | Two pieces stitched, edges pressed open | General garments |
| French seam | Stitched wrong sides together, trimmed, then stitched enclosing raw edges | Sheer fabrics, lingerie |
| Flat-felled seam | Edges folded and topstitched flat | Jeans, shirts |
| Mock French seam | Edges turned in and stitched together | Light fabrics |
| Overlocked seam | Edges trimmed and covered by looped thread | Knits and woven edges |
Pinking
Zigzag cut
Firm fabrics that fray little
Overlocking
Looped stitches on the edge
Most woven and knit fabrics
Turned-and-stitched
Fold edge and stitch
Light unlined garments
Binding
Bias tape encloses the edge
Unlined jackets
Key terms
- Layout
- Placement of pattern pieces on fabric
- Grain line
- Direction parallel to the selvedge
- Nap
- Pile direction
- Seam
- Join between pieces
- Seam finish
- Treatment to prevent fraying
Quick revision
- Align grain with selvedge; match patterns.
- Seams: plain, French, flat-felled, overlock.
- Finish seams to stop fraying.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.Define a seam.
- Q2.What is the grain line?
- Q3.When is a French seam used?
- Q4.What are pinking shears?
- Q5.Why is layout important?
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Explain layout, marking and cutting steps with tools.
- Q2.Describe seam types and finishes with uses.
Stuck on this unit?
Message SBS on WhatsApp for help with Fabric Handling, or to ask about studying B.Sc Textile at Synetic.