Unit 2: Handling different fabrics
Fabric Handling notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 311-20)
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Unit summary
Different fabrics behave differently while cutting, sewing and finishing. This unit sets out the handling methods for denim, satin, sheer fabrics, velvet, knits, silk, loosely woven fabric and embroidery.
After this unit you can
- Select needles, stitches and cutting methods by fabric
- Avoid typical problems such as puckering and fraying
- Plan handling for embroidered and loosely woven fabric
PTU syllabus topics
- Cutting and finishing techniques and sample development across denim
- satin
- organza/organdy
- chiffon/georgette/crepe
- velvet/corduroy
- knits
- silk
- loosely woven and embroidered fabric
Chiffon and georgette
Slippery, frays
Tissue paper under it; fine needle; French seams
Velvet and corduroy
Pile direction (nap)
Cut all pieces in one direction
Denim
Thick seams
Denim needle, longer stitch
Knits
Stretch
Ballpoint needle, stretch stitch
Satin
Shows pin marks
Pin in the seam allowance only
Topic 1
Handling different fabrics
| Fabric | Cutting | Sewing | Finishing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Denim | Sharp shears, single layer for accuracy | Heavy needle (100/16), long stitch, topstitch | Flat-felled seams; wash for softness |
| Satin | Pins in the seam allowance, rotary cutter | Fine needle (60/8), short stitch | French seam; press with a cloth |
| Organza / organdy | Sharp scissors, anchor in tissue | Fine needle, small stitches | French seam; narrow hems |
| Chiffon, georgette, crepe | Cut between tissue paper | Fine needle, light tension | French seams; rolled hems |
| Velvet / corduroy | Cut with nap in one direction | Walking foot, longer stitch | Press over a needle board |
| Knits | Ballpoint scissors; avoid stretching | Ballpoint needle, stretch stitch | Overlock seams; twin-needle hems |
| Silk | Weights, not pins | Fine needle, short stitch | Hand finish; cool iron |
| Loosely woven | Cut loosely and finish edges at once | Interface seams | Bind or overlock edges |
| Embroidered | Cut around motifs; avoid tension | Stabiliser underneath | Press from the wrong side on a soft pad |
Light fabrics need fine needles and short stitches; heavy fabrics need larger needles and longer stitches
Topic 2
Common problems and remedies
| Problem | Cause | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| Puckering | Tight tension, wrong needle, slippery fabric | Lower tension, fine needle, tissue underlay |
| Fraying | Loose weave | Finish edges immediately; use French or bound seams |
| Skipped stitches | Blunt or wrong needle | Change to a new correct-type needle |
| Slipping layers | Smooth fabric | Use walking foot, pins in seam allowance |
| Shine marks | Hot iron on silk, satin | Use a pressing cloth and low heat |
Exam tip
Always sew a test seam on a scrap of the same fabric before cutting the garment.
Key terms
- Walking foot
- Presser foot that feeds layers evenly
- Ballpoint needle
- Needle for knits
- Nap
- Directional pile
- French seam
- Enclosed seam for sheer fabrics
- Stabiliser
- Backing for embroidery
Quick revision
- Match needle, stitch and seam to fabric.
- Sheer fabrics: fine needles, French seams.
- Velvet: cut with the nap in one direction.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.Which seam suits chiffon?
- Q2.Why use a ballpoint needle on knits?
- Q3.What is a walking foot?
- Q4.How should velvet be cut?
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Explain handling methods for five different fabrics.
- Q2.Discuss how embroidered and loosely woven fabrics are cut and finished.
Stuck on this unit?
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