Unit 2: Weft knitted fabrics
Introduction to Knitting notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 402-20)
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Unit summary
Weft-knitted fabrics range from simple jersey to fully fashioned sweaters. This unit covers the classification of weft knits — jersey, rib, purl, interlock, double knit, high pile, fully fashioned, knitted terry and velour — and tuck, welt and transferred loops.
After this unit you can
- Classify weft-knitted fabrics
- Compare jersey, rib, purl and interlock
- Describe double knits, pile, terry and velour
- Explain fully fashioned knitting and loop transfer
PTU syllabus topics
- Classification of weft knitted fabrics — jersey
- rib
- purl knit
- interlock
- double knit
- high pile
- fully fashioned fabric
- knitted terry and velour
- tuck/welt/transferred loops
Single jersey
Knit stitches on one face
T-shirts
Rib
Knit and purl wales alternate
Cuffs, collars
Interlock
Two interlocked 1x1 ribs
Smooth both sides, polo shirts
Purl
Knit and purl courses alternate
Children's wear, sweaters
Topic 1
Classification of weft knits
Single jersey
One needle bed — plain jersey, piqué, fleece
Rib
Two needle beds, needles opposed — 1×1, 2×2 rib
Purl
Double-headed (links-links) needles
Interlock
Two beds, needles aligned, two interlocked 1×1 ribs
Double knits
Jacquard and fancy two-bed fabrics — Milano rib, Punto di Roma
Speciality
High pile, terry, velour, fully fashioned
Topic 2
Jersey, rib, purl and interlock
Single jersey
Knit loops on face, purl on back
Light, good lengthwise stretch, curls at edges, ladders — T-shirts, innerwear
Rib
Knit and purl wales alternate
High widthwise stretch and recovery; does not curl — cuffs, neckbands, fitted tops
Purl
Knit and purl courses alternate
High lengthwise stretch; looks the same both sides — children's wear, sweaters
Interlock
Two rib structures interlocked; both sides look like jersey face
Stable, smooth, thick, does not curl or ladder easily — polo shirts, babywear
Topic 3
Double knits, high pile, terry and velour
- Double knit
- Firm two-bed fabrics with patterns — dresses, jackets
- High pile (sliver knit)
- Fibre sliver caught into the knitted base — fake fur, linings
- Knitted terry
- Extra loop yarn forms pile on one side — towels, sweatshirts
- Velour
- Terry loops sheared — velvety surface
- Fleece
- Loop yarn brushed (raised) — warm sweatshirts
Topic 4
Fully fashioned fabric
- Fully fashioned knitting: garment panels shaped on the machine by increasing or decreasing stitches (loop transfer) — less cutting waste, neat edges, shaping marks visible near seams. Modern whole-garment (seamless) machines knit a complete garment in one piece.
Topic 5
Tuck, welt (miss) and transferred loops
Tuck loop
Held loop with extra yarn
Piqué (Lacoste), cardigan stitch, eyelets
Welt (miss) loop
Float behind non-knitting needle
Jacquard colour patterns, cross-miss fabrics
Transferred loop
Loop moved to an adjacent needle
Shaping, lace and eyelet effects, cable stitches
Key terms
- Single jersey
- Weft knit made on one needle bed
- Rib
- Fabric with alternating face and back wales
- Interlock
- Double-faced fabric of two interlocked ribs
- Fully fashioned
- Shaped on the machine by changing stitch numbers
- Velour
- Knit with sheared pile
Quick revision
- Single jersey, rib, purl, interlock; double knit; speciality knits.
- Properties and uses of each.
- High pile, terry, velour, fleece.
- Fully fashioned and whole-garment knitting.
- Tuck, welt, transferred loops.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.Why does single jersey curl?
- Q2.Where is rib fabric used?
- Q3.Distinguish rib and interlock.
- Q4.How is velour made?
- Q5.What is fully fashioned knitting?
- Q6.Name a fabric made with tuck stitches.
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Classify weft-knitted fabrics.
- Q2.Compare jersey, rib, purl and interlock fabrics.
- Q3.Explain fully fashioned knitting and loop transfer.
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