Unit 4: Woven vs. knitted construction
Introduction to Knitting notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 402-20)
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Unit summary
Choosing between woven and knitted fabric depends on how the construction affects comfort, fit and care. This unit covers the key differences between woven and knitted fabric and the effect of construction on knitted fabric properties.
After this unit you can
- Compare woven and knitted fabrics
- Explain how loop length and stitch type affect properties
- Relate construction to shrinkage and spirality
- Choose fabrics for end uses
PTU syllabus topics
Key differences between woven and knitted fabric, effect of fabric construction on knitted fabric properties
Made by
Interlacing warp and weft
Interlooping yarn
Stretch
Little, except on the bias
High stretch and recovery
Wrinkles
More
Less
Unravels
Frays at edges
Can ladder or run
Topic 1
Woven vs knitted fabrics
Construction
Interlacing of warp and weft at right angles
Interlooping of yarns
Stretch
Little (except bias or with elastane)
High, especially widthwise
Wrinkle resistance
Wrinkles more
Wrinkles less
Shape retention
Holds shape and creases
May sag or grow; dimensional change
Comfort
Less stretch; may be crisp
Soft, stretchy, breathable
Fraying and laddering
Frays at cut edges
Weft knits ladder and curl
Production
Slower; more preparation
Faster; less preparation
Uses
Shirts, suits, denim, sarees
T-shirts, sportswear, innerwear, sweaters
Topic 2
Effect of construction on knitted fabric properties
- Loop length
- Longer loops — lighter, more open, less stable fabric; shorter — tighter, heavier
- Tightness factor
- Square root of tex ÷ loop length; controls dimensional stability
- Stitch type
- Rib gives width stretch; interlock gives stability; tuck adds bulk and width
- Yarn twist and count
- High twist causes spirality; finer yarn gives lighter fabric
- Machine gauge
- Finer gauge — finer, smoother fabric
- Fibre
- Cotton shrinks more; synthetics are stable when heat-set
- Shrinkage control: relaxation, compacting (compressive shrinkage), heat-setting of synthetics; buyers specify maximum shrinkage (often ±5% for knits).
Key terms
- Interlooping
- Forming fabric by linking loops
- Interlacing
- Forming fabric by crossing warp and weft
- Tightness factor
- Ratio relating yarn size to loop length
- Spirality
- Slanting of wales in weft knits
- Compacting
- Mechanical shrinkage control for knits
Quick revision
- Woven vs knitted comparison table.
- Loop length, tightness factor, stitch type, yarn, gauge, fibre effects.
- Shrinkage control methods.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.State three differences between woven and knitted fabrics.
- Q2.Why are knits more comfortable?
- Q3.How does loop length affect fabric weight?
- Q4.What causes spirality?
- Q5.What is compacting?
- Q6.Which fabric — woven or knit — suits a formal shirt? Why?
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Compare woven and knitted fabrics.
- Q2.Explain the effect of construction on the properties of knitted fabrics.
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