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Unit 2 of 3 · B.Sc Textile Sem 1

Unit 2: Fabric representation & loom setup

Introduction to Weaving notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 102-20)

3 min read3 topics9 exam questions
On this page
  1. Unit summary
  2. Fabric representation on point paper
  3. Principles of drafting, lifting and denting
  4. Setting up a loom and simple weaves
  5. Key terms
  6. Quick revision
  7. Important questions

Unit summary

Weave designs are planned on paper before they are woven. This unit covers how a fabric is represented on point paper, the principles of drafting, lifting and denting, setting up a loom and the three foundation weaves.

After this unit you can

  • Draw a weave on point (graph) paper and mark its repeat
  • Prepare a draft, lifting plan and denting order
  • Describe how a loom is set up for weaving
  • Compare plain, twill and satin weaves

PTU syllabus topics

  • Methods of fabric representation
  • concept of repeat on point/graph paper
  • principles of drafting
  • lifting and denting
  • setting up a loom for weaving
  • simple weaves and their characteristics
ProcessSetting up a loom
  1. 1

    Plan the design

    Weave on graph paper

  2. 2

    Calculate warp length and width

  3. 3

    Wind the warp

  4. 4

    Draft

    Thread through heddles

  5. 5

    Dent

    Sley through the reed

  6. 6

    Tie on and start weaving

1

Topic 1

Fabric representation on point paper

A weave is drawn on point paper (graph paper). Each vertical column represents a warp end, each horizontal row a weft pick, and each small square an interlacement. A filled (marked) square means the warp end is raised above the weft at that point; an empty square means the weft is above the warp.

GraphFoundation weaves on point paper (filled square = warp end up)
Plain2/1 twill5-end satinBasket 2/2

Plain repeats on 2 ends and 2 picks; the 2/1 twill on 3; the 5-end satin on 5; the 2/2 basket on 4 ends and 4 picks

TermMeaning
Repeat (unit)Smallest group of ends and picks after which the pattern repeats
FloatYarn passing over two or more yarns of the other system
InterlacingCrossing of a warp end and a weft pick
WeaveOrder in which the warp and weft interlace

The repeat is shown on the paper by a heavier outline; to avoid errors, repeat size is written as ends × picks (for example 3 × 3 for twill).

2

Topic 2

Principles of drafting, lifting and denting

Before weaving, three plans are prepared.

Key termsPlans prepared before weaving
Draft (drawing-in or threading plan)
Shows which shaft each warp end is passed through
Lifting plan (peg plan)
Shows which shafts are raised for each pick
Denting plan
Shows how many ends pass through each dent of the reed
Tie-up
Links treadles to shafts on the loom
ProcessFrom design to loom
  1. 1

    Weave on point paper

  2. 2

    Draft

  3. 3

    Lifting plan

  4. 4

    Denting

  5. 5

    Warping and beaming

  6. 6

    Weave

GraphDraft and lifting plan for a 2/1 twill on three shafts
Shaft 3Shaft 2Shaft 1Pick 1: lift shafts 1and 2Pick 2: lift shafts 2and 3Pick 3: lift shafts 3and 1

The draft shows which shaft each end is threaded on; the lifting plan shows the shafts raised for each pick

A straight draft threads ends 1, 2, 3 on shafts 1, 2, 3 in order. A pointed draft reverses direction at a point to make zigzag twills. The number of shafts needed equals the number of different threading positions.

3

Topic 3

Setting up a loom and simple weaves

ProcessSetting up a loom
  1. 1

    Calculate warp length and ends

  2. 2

    Warp the yarn

  3. 3

    Beam the warp

  4. 4

    Thread heddles (draw-in)

  5. 5

    Sley through the reed

  6. 6

    Tie on and tension

  7. 7

    Begin weaving

WeaveInterlacing ruleCharacteristicsTypical uses
Plain1 up, 1 down; most interlacingsFirm, flat, strong, lowest drape, cheapestShirting, voile, muslin
TwillInterlacing steps by one end each pick; diagonal lineSofter, drapes well, hides soil, more floatsDenim, gabardine, drill
Satin and sateenFew, scattered interlacings; long floatsLustrous, smooth, lower tear strength, snagsEvening wear, linings, upholstery
GraphFloat length and fabric properties: more floats give lustre and drape but less stability
Float length (plain → twill → satin)Property levelOLustre and drapeStability and firmness

Plain weave is the most stable; satin the most lustrous. Twill lies between

Key terms

Point paper
Graph paper used to draw weave designs
Draft
Plan showing the shaft for each warp end
Lifting plan
Shafts raised on each pick
Denting
Order of ends through the reed dents
Twill
Weave with diagonal lines
Satin
Weave with long floats and a lustrous face

Quick revision

  • Weave on point paper: column = end, row = pick, mark = warp up.
  • Plans: draft, lifting plan, denting plan, tie-up.
  • Plain: strong and firm; twill: drape and diagonal; satin: lustre but snags.
  • Repeat written as ends × picks.

Important exam questions

Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).

Short-answer questions

  1. Q1.What does a filled square on point paper show?
  2. Q2.Define draft and lifting plan.
  3. Q3.What is a float?
  4. Q4.Name the three foundation weaves.
  5. Q5.What is meant by the repeat of a weave?
  6. Q6.Why does satin snag easily?

Long-answer questions

  1. Q1.Explain how a weave is represented on point paper with examples of plain, twill and satin.
  2. Q2.Describe the drafting, lifting and denting plans and how they are used on a loom.
  3. Q3.Compare plain, twill and satin weaves with uses.

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