Unit 1: Finishing fundamentals
Textile Finishes notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 301-20)
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Unit summary
Finishing gives fabric its final look, feel and performance. This unit covers the objectives of finishing, the classification of finishes and the terminology used in fabric finishing.
After this unit you can
- State the objectives of finishing
- Classify finishes by method, durability and purpose
- Use finishing terminology correctly
- Relate finishes to end uses
PTU syllabus topics
- Objectives of finishing
- classification of finishes
- terminology used in fabric finishing
Mechanical
Calendering, raising, sanforising, shearing
Chemical
Resin, softening, stiffening
Aesthetic
Change look and feel: lustre, handle
Functional
Add performance: water repellent, flame retardant, antimicrobial
Permanent vs temporary
Lasts through washing or not
Topic 1
Objectives of finishing
- Appearance
- Lustre, smoothness, whiteness, surface effects
- Handle
- Softness, stiffness, fullness, drape
- Performance
- Wrinkle resistance, water repellency, flame retardancy, antimicrobial protection
- Dimensional stability
- Control shrinkage
- Value addition
- Meet buyer and consumer expectations; higher price
Topic 2
Classification of finishes
By method
Mechanical (physical) and chemical
Calendering, raising; resin, softener
By durability
Temporary, semi-durable, durable, permanent
Starching (temporary); resin (durable); mercerisation (permanent)
By purpose
Aesthetic and functional
Lustre, embossing; water repellent, flame retardant
By stage
Routine (basic) and special
Stentering, drying; anti-microbial, UV protection
Topic 3
Finishing terminology
- Hand (handle)
- How fabric feels to the touch
- Drape
- How fabric hangs and falls
- Stentering (tentering)
- Setting fabric width and drying on a stenter frame with pins or clips
- Calendering
- Pressing between heated rollers
- Curing
- Heating to fix resins and chemicals
- Add-on
- Amount of finish on fabric as a percentage of weight
- Padding
- Impregnating fabric with finish liquor and squeezing
- Shrinkage
- Change in dimensions after washing
- Durable press
- Garments keeping shape and creases after washing
Key terms
- Finishing
- Final treatments improving fabric appearance and performance
- Mechanical finish
- Finish applied by physical action
- Functional finish
- Finish adding performance properties
- Stentering
- Drying fabric to set width
- Curing
- Heat treatment fixing a finish
Quick revision
- Objectives: appearance, handle, performance, stability, value.
- Mechanical vs chemical; temporary to permanent; aesthetic vs functional.
- Terms: hand, drape, stentering, calendering, curing, add-on, padding.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.State three objectives of finishing.
- Q2.Distinguish mechanical and chemical finishes.
- Q3.Give an example of a permanent finish.
- Q4.What is stentering?
- Q5.Define hand of a fabric.
- Q6.What is add-on?
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Explain the objectives and classification of textile finishes.
- Q2.Explain the terminology used in fabric finishing.
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