Unit 3: Resist-dyed textiles
Traditional Indian Textiles and Embroideries notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 202-20)
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Unit summary
In resist dyeing, parts of the yarn or cloth are protected from dye to create patterns. This unit covers Patola, Ikat and Pochampally, Sambalpuri, and the Bandhani of Rajasthan and Gujarat.
After this unit you can
- Explain the principle of resist dyeing
- Distinguish single and double ikat
- Describe Patola, Pochampally and Sambalpuri
- Describe Bandhani and Leheriya
PTU syllabus topics
- Patola
- Ikat and Pochampalli
- Sambalpuri
- Bandhani of Rajasthan and Gujarat
Patola
Patan, Gujarat
Double ikat: warp and weft dyed
Pochampally ikat
Telangana
Geometric ikat
Sambalpuri
Odisha
Bandha tie-dye ikat
Bandhani
Gujarat, Rajasthan
Tie-dye dots
Topic 1
Resist dyeing and ikat
- Ikat: yarns are tied in bundles and dyed before weaving so that the pattern appears in the woven cloth with characteristic blurred edges.
Warp ikat
Only warp yarns tied and dyed
Many Indonesian ikats
Weft ikat
Only weft yarns tied and dyed
Sambalpuri, Pochampally (mostly)
Double ikat
Both warp and weft tied and dyed and aligned exactly while weaving
Patan Patola, Telia Rumal
Topic 2
Patola
- Patan Patola (Gujarat): double ikat silk woven by a few Salvi families; both sides identical; motifs — narikunj (geometric), elephants, parrots, flowers (paan bhat); one saree can take months. GI tagged.
- Rajkot Patola: single ikat, more affordable.
Topic 3
Ikat of Pochampally and Telia Rumal
- Pochampally (Telangana): cotton and silk ikat, mainly weft ikat with geometric diamonds; GI tag. Telia Rumal (Puttapaka, Chirala): double ikat squares originally treated with oil (teli), in red, black and white.
Topic 4
Sambalpuri
- Sambalpuri (western Odisha): weft ikat called bandha; motifs — shankha (conch), chakra (wheel), phula (flower) — symbolising Jagannath culture; cotton and silk sarees (Bomkai and Pasapali related styles). GI tagged.
Topic 5
Bandhani and Leheriya
- 1Mark the design on cloth
- 2Pinch small points and tie tightly with thread (bandhej)
- 3Dye from light to dark, tying more areas between colours
- 4Dry, then untie to reveal dots
Bandhani
Gujarat (Jamnagar, Kutch) and Rajasthan
Tiny dots in patterns; ekdali (single dot), shikari (animal figures), chandrakala (moon); gharchola wedding saree
Leheriya
Rajasthan (Jaipur, Jodhpur)
Rolled cloth tied diagonally gives wave stripes; mothra gives checks
Shibori (comparison)
Japan
Stitch, fold and pole-wrap resist
- Bandhani from Kutch carries a GI tag.
Key terms
- Ikat
- Patterning by resist-dyeing yarns before weaving
- Double ikat
- Both warp and weft resist-dyed
- Patola
- Double ikat silk of Patan, Gujarat
- Bandha
- Odia term for ikat in Sambalpuri weaving
- Leheriya
- Rajasthani wave-pattern tie-dye
Quick revision
- Resist principle; warp, weft, double ikat.
- Patan Patola, Rajkot Patola; Pochampally, Telia Rumal.
- Sambalpuri bandha and motifs.
- Bandhani process and motifs; Leheriya and mothra.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.What is ikat?
- Q2.Distinguish single and double ikat.
- Q3.Who weaves Patan Patola?
- Q4.Name two Sambalpuri motifs.
- Q5.Describe the Bandhani process.
- Q6.What is Leheriya?
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Explain ikat weaving with Indian examples.
- Q2.Describe Patan Patola.
- Q3.Describe Bandhani and Leheriya of Gujarat and Rajasthan.
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