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Unit 4 of 4 · B.Sc Textile Sem 2

Unit 4: Traditional embroideries

Traditional Indian Textiles and Embroideries notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 202-20)

3 min read6 topics9 exam questions
On this page
  1. Unit summary
  2. Kasuti (Karnataka)
  3. Chamba Rumal (Himachal Pradesh)
  4. Zardozi
  5. Aari work
  6. Appliqué
  7. Field research and documentation
  8. Key terms
  9. Quick revision
  10. Important questions

Unit summary

Embroidery adds region-specific stitches, colours and stories to cloth. This unit covers Kasuti, Chamba Rumal, Zardozi, appliqué and Aari work, with field research and documentation of traditional textiles.

After this unit you can

  • Describe Kasuti and Chamba Rumal
  • Describe Zardozi and Aari work
  • Describe appliqué traditions
  • Plan field research and craft documentation

PTU syllabus topics

  • Kasuti
  • Chamba
  • Zardosi
  • Applique
  • Aari work
  • plus field research and documentation of traditional textiles and embroideries
ComparisonTraditional embroideries
Region
Signature feature

Kasuti

Karnataka

Counted-thread geometric motifs

Chamba rumal

Himachal Pradesh

Double satin stitch: same on both sides

Zardozi

Lucknow, Agra and others

Metallic thread embroidery

Aari

Kashmir, Gujarat

Hooked needle chain stitch

Appliqué

Odisha (Pipli), Gujarat

Cut fabric pieces stitched on

1

Topic 1

Kasuti (Karnataka)

  • Counted-thread embroidery done by women of Dharwad and Belgaum on Ilkal sarees; stitches — gavanti (double running, reversible), murgi (zigzag), negi (running, woven effect), menthi (cross stitch). Motifs: temple gopurams, chariots, lotus, elephants. GI tagged.
2

Topic 2

Chamba Rumal (Himachal Pradesh)

  • Square handkerchiefs embroidered with double satin stitch (do-rukha), identical on both sides, in untwisted silk on fine muslin, inspired by Pahari miniatures — Krishna leela, Ramayana scenes, wedding scenes. Used to cover gifts and offerings. GI tagged.
3

Topic 3

Zardozi

  • Heavy metal embroidery with gold and silver wire, salma (coiled wire), sitara (sequins), dabka and beads, worked on a frame (adda) over velvet or silk; Mughal patronage; centres — Lucknow, Agra, Varanasi, Bhopal, Hyderabad. Used for bridal wear, accessories.
4

Topic 4

Aari work

  • Chain-stitch embroidery with a hooked needle (aari) on a frame, very fast and fine; traditions of Kashmir (crewel and namda), Kutch (Mochi bharat) and Lucknow; often combined with sequins and beads in fashion.
5

Topic 5

Appliqué

Key termsAppliqué traditions
Pipli (Odisha)
Bright cut-cloth motifs on canopies and umbrellas for the Jagannath Rath Yatra
Kutch and Saurashtra (Gujarat)
Torans, quilts (rallis) with geometric patchwork
Banni (Kutch)
Appliqué with mirrors
Bihar (khatwa)
Tent hangings and canopies
6

Topic 6

Field research and documentation

ProcessCraft documentation
  1. 1

    Background research — history, region, community

  2. 2

    Plan the visit — permissions, questionnaire, equipment

  3. 3

    Interview artisans — techniques, tools, materials, costs, market, problems

  4. 4

    Record — photographs, sketches, samples, audio and video with consent

  5. 5

    Analyse — design vocabulary, motifs, colours, process chart

  6. 6

    Report — illustrated document with credits and suggestions for revival

  • Ethics: respect artisans' knowledge, obtain consent, credit and share benefits, avoid copying protected (GI) designs without permission.

Key terms

Kasuti
Counted-thread embroidery of Karnataka
Do-rukha
Double satin stitch identical on both sides
Zardozi
Metal-thread embroidery
Aari
Hooked needle for chain-stitch embroidery
Appliqué
Cut fabric pieces stitched onto a base cloth

Quick revision

  • Kasuti stitches gavanti, murgi, negi, menthi.
  • Chamba Rumal: double satin; Pahari themes.
  • Zardozi materials and centres; Aari chain stitch.
  • Pipli, Kutch, Banni appliqué.
  • Documentation steps and ethics.

Important exam questions

Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).

Short-answer questions

  1. Q1.Name two Kasuti stitches.
  2. Q2.Why is Chamba Rumal reversible?
  3. Q3.What is salma in Zardozi?
  4. Q4.What tool is used in Aari work?
  5. Q5.Where is Pipli appliqué made?
  6. Q6.Name three things to record in craft documentation.

Long-answer questions

  1. Q1.Describe Kasuti and Chamba Rumal embroideries.
  2. Q2.Describe Zardozi, Aari and appliqué work.
  3. Q3.Explain how to carry out field research and documentation of a craft.

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