Unit 1: Kantha, Phulkari and Kashida
Traditional Indian Embroideries notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 108-20)
On this page
Unit summary
Kantha, Phulkari and Kashida come from eastern, northern and north-western India. This unit studies the origin, technique, colours, motifs and social meaning of each, with prototype sample development.
After this unit you can
- Describe the origin and technique of Kantha, Phulkari and Kashida
- Identify motifs, colours and layouts of each embroidery
- Explain the religious, social and economic role of each craft
- Plan a prototype sample
PTU syllabus topics
- Origin
- technique
- colours
- motifs
- layouts
- religious/social/economic importance of Kantha
- Phulkari and Kashida embroidery
- with prototype sample development
Kantha
West Bengal, Odisha
Running stitch on layered old saris
Phulkari
Punjab
Darn stitch in silk floss on khaddar
Kashida
Kashmir
Chain and satin stitch: flora, birds
Topic 1
Kantha (Bengal)
Kantha is a running-stitch embroidery from West Bengal and Bangladesh, originally made by layering and quilting old saris and dhotis. It is worked by women for family use.
| Feature | Kantha |
|---|---|
| Region | West Bengal, Bangladesh, Odisha |
| Stitch | Running (darning) stitch, creating a rippled surface |
| Ground | Layers of old cotton cloth quilted together |
| Thread | Coloured threads drawn from sari borders |
| Motifs | Lotus, tree of life, fish, boats, flowers, scenes from village life |
| Uses | Quilts (sujani), covers, wraps, bags, stoles |
Types include Lep (thick quilt), Sujani (ceremonial), Baiton (wrapper), Archilata (mirror covers) and Rumal (handkerchief).
Topic 2
Phulkari (Punjab)
Phulkari ('flower work') is the embroidery of Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan, worked on the reverse of coarse khaddar cloth with untwisted silk floss (pat) in darning stitch, counting the warp threads.
Coverage
Scattered flowers; ground shows
Whole surface covered, ground hidden
Use
Daily wear, dupatta
Ceremonial, bridal
Colour
Orange, red, yellow, green on rust or white
Mostly golden-yellow silk on red khaddar
Motifs are geometric — triangles, diamonds, squares — based on the ground weave; popular patterns include Chope (given to a bride) and Sainchi (village scenes). Phulkari is part of weddings and birth ceremonies in Punjab.
Topic 3
Kashida (Kashmir)
Kashida is the embroidery of Kashmir, usually done with chain, satin, darning and stem stitches in fine wool or silk on shawls, pherans, rugs (namdas) and curtains.
| Feature | Kashida |
|---|---|
| Region | Kashmir valley |
| Stitches | Chain, satin, stem, darning, herringbone |
| Colours | Red, blue, green, white on cream or grey wool |
| Motifs | Chinar leaf, almond (kairi), lotus, iris, birds, flowers |
| Types | Sozni (fine needlework), Tilla (metallic thread), Aari (hook chain-stitch) |
Exam tip
Economic importance: Kashmir embroidery supplies tourism and export markets, though machine imitations threaten hand embroiderers.
Topic 4
Prototype sample development
Kantha and Phulkari use running and darning stitches; Kashida uses chain and satin; Kutch uses herringbone and buttonhole around mirrors; Chikankari uses flat and open-work stitches
- 1
Research the craft and collect images
- 2
Choose motif and layout
- 3
Transfer the design on fabric
- 4
Select thread, needle and stitch
- 5
Work the sample
- 6
Finish and document
A good sample records: craft name, region, stitch used, colours, motif and its meaning, and notes on difficulty.
Key terms
- Kantha
- Running-stitch quilting from Bengal
- Phulkari
- Darning-stitch embroidery from Punjab
- Bagh
- Phulkari with full surface coverage
- Kashida
- Embroidery from Kashmir
- Sozni
- Fine needlework
- Pat
- Untwisted silk floss
Quick revision
- Kantha: running stitch on old cloth.
- Phulkari: darning stitch on khaddar, counting threads.
- Kashida: chain stitch and motifs from Kashmir's nature.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.Which stitch is characteristic of Kantha?
- Q2.What is Bagh?
- Q3.Name two Kashida motifs.
- Q4.Where did Kantha originate?
- Q5.What is pat?
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Describe the origin, technique and motifs of Kantha, Phulkari and Kashida.
- Q2.Explain the social and economic importance of Phulkari.
Stuck on this unit?
Message SBS on WhatsApp for help with Traditional Indian Embroideries, or to ask about studying B.Sc Textile at Synetic.