Unit 2: Kutch and Chikankari
Traditional Indian Embroideries notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 108-20)
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Unit summary
Kutch embroidery and Chikankari are two of India's best-known hand embroideries. This unit studies their origin, technique, colours, motifs and significance, including documentation of a field visit to a museum or exhibition.
After this unit you can
- Describe Kutch embroidery styles and their communities
- Explain Chikankari stitches and the stages of production
- Compare the two crafts
- Document a field visit
PTU syllabus topics
- Origin
- technique
- colours
- motifs and significance of Kutch and Chikankari embroidery
- prototype sample development
- field visit to a craft museum or exhibition
Region
Gujarat
Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh
Look
Bright colours, mirror work
White-on-white, delicate
Stitches
Chain, interlacing, mirror work
Shadow work, bakhia, phanda, jaali
Fabric
Cotton, silk
Muslin, cotton, georgette
Topic 1
Kutch embroidery (Gujarat)
Kutch embroidery is made by pastoral and farming communities of the Kutch region, each with its own style.
| Style | Community | Features |
|---|---|---|
| Soof | Soof (Sodha) | Geometric patterns worked from the back of the cloth, counting threads |
| Neran | Neran | Fine, stylised patterns |
| Pakko | Pakko Rabari | Chain, square and interlacing stitch, outlines with black or white |
| Kharek | Kharek | Geometric motifs worked in satin stitch |
| Mutwa | Muslim herders | Fine, tiny mirror-work |
| Rabari | Rabari | Large motifs and mirrors, vivid colours |
Mirror work (abhla) is held in place with buttonhole stitches. Motifs include peacocks, flowers, elephants and geometric forms. The craft is a source of income for rural women, supported by cooperatives and craft fairs.
Topic 2
Chikankari (Lucknow)
Chikankari is white-on-white (and light-colour) hand embroidery from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, worked with white thread on fine cotton, muslin or georgette.
- 1Design
- 2Block printing
- 3Embroidery
- 4Washing
- 5Finishing
| Stitch group | Examples |
|---|---|
| Flat stitches | Taipchi, bakhiya, hool, zanzeera |
| Embossed stitches | Murri, phanda, jali |
| Open-work (jali) | Cut and drawn-thread work |
Typical motifs are flowers, creepers, paisley and the mango (buti). Chikankari is worn as kurtas, sarees and shirts, and is a major source of employment for women in and around Lucknow.
Topic 3
Field visit and documentation
Visit a craft museum or exhibition and record: craft name, community, region, materials, techniques, motifs, colours, uses and price range. Add sketches and photographs, and write a one-page reflection on how the craft could inspire contemporary design.
Key terms
- Soof
- Geometric Kutch style worked from the back
- Abhla
- Mirror work
- Chikankari
- White embroidery of Lucknow
- Taipchi
- A flat Chikankari stitch
- Jali
- Open-work stitch
Quick revision
- Kutch: Soof, Neran, Pakko, Kharek, Rabari with mirror work.
- Chikankari: Lucknow, white thread, stitches include taipchi, bakhiya and jali.
- Record a field visit with sketches and notes.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.What is abhla?
- Q2.Name two Chikankari stitches.
- Q3.Where is Chikankari made?
- Q4.What is Pakko?
- Q5.State two motifs of Kutch embroidery.
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Describe the main styles of Kutch embroidery with features.
- Q2.Explain the stages, stitches and motifs of Chikankari.
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