Unit 1: Pattern making fundamentals
Pattern Making and Draping notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 501-20)
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Unit summary
Patterns turn a design into a garment that fits. This unit explains why patterns are needed for industry standards, how to take body measurements and how patterns relate to the body and dress forms.
After this unit you can
- Take accurate body measurements
- Use a measurement chart
- Explain how patterns relate to the body and dress form
PTU syllabus topics
- Importance of pattern making for industrial standardisation
- taking measurements
- measurement charts
- pattern-making techniques for proper fall and fit
- correlating the human body with dress forms and patterns
Circumferences
Bust, waist, hip
Lengths
Shoulder to waist, waist to hip, full length
Widths
Shoulder, across front and back
Arm
Sleeve length, bicep, wrist
Topic 1
Importance of pattern making
A pattern is a template of the garment parts. Industry needs standard patterns for consistent fit, grading across sizes, efficient cutting and costing.
- 1
Design sketch
- 2
Measurements
- 3
Basic block
- 4
Working pattern
- 5
Production pattern
- 6
Grading
- 7
Cutting
Topic 2
Taking measurements
| Measurement | Where |
|---|---|
| Bust | Fullest part of the chest, tape level |
| Waist | Narrowest part of the torso |
| Hip | Fullest part of the hips, about 20 cm below waist |
| Shoulder | Neck point to shoulder tip |
| Armhole depth | Shoulder to under the arm |
| Back length (nape to waist) | Base of neck to waist |
| Sleeve length | Shoulder tip to wrist |
Exam tip
Measure over light clothing, with the tape snug but not tight, and record to the nearest 0.5 cm. Take two readings to check.
Bust, waist and hip are the primary girth measurements; length measurements run vertically
Key terms
- Pattern
- Template of garment parts
- Block (sloper)
- Basic fitted pattern
- Grading
- Making a pattern in other sizes
- Ease
- Extra room for movement
- Measurement chart
- Table of body measurements
Quick revision
- Primary girths: bust, waist, hip.
- Standard patterns allow grading and costing.
- Ease gives comfort.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.What is a block?
- Q2.Why measure twice?
- Q3.What is ease?
- Q4.Define grading.
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Explain how body measurements are taken for a bodice.
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