Unit 3: Garment patterns
Pattern Making and Draping notes · PTU syllabus (BSTD 501-20)
Unit summary
Fit is shaped by darts and styled by manipulation. This unit explains dart manipulation, the slash-and-spread technique and development of basic garment patterns.
After this unit you can
- Shift a dart by pivoting or slash and spread
- Develop a top or kurti, a skirt and a dress pattern
PTU syllabus topics
- Dart manipulation
- slashing and spreading techniques for proper fall and fit
- developing patterns for a top/kurti/T-shirt
- a skirt
- a combined dress
Pivot method
Rotate the block around the bust point
Moving darts to new positions
Slash and spread
Cut and open the pattern
Adding fullness, flare, gathers
Converting darts
Turn darts into seams or gathers
Princess lines, yokes
Topic 1
Dart manipulation
A dart is a wedge folded and stitched to shape fabric to the body. Dart manipulation moves the dart to a new position without changing the fit: the dart can be a side, French, waist, shoulder or neckline dart, or be converted into pleats, tucks or gathers.
Both darts point to the bust point; moving the dart changes the style but keeps the shape
- 1
Trace the block
- 2
Mark the bust point
- 3
Draw slash lines from the dart or edge to the bust point
- 4
Cut and close the old dart
- 5
Spread the new opening
- 6
Redraw and true the lines
Topic 2
Garment patterns
| Garment | Key blocks | Features |
|---|---|---|
| Top, kurti, T-shirt | Bodice and sleeve | Neckline, armhole, shoulder and side seams |
| Skirt | Skirt block | Waist darts, hem flare |
| Dress | Bodice and skirt joined | Waist seam or princess lines |
Key terms
- Dart
- Folded wedge shaping the fabric
- Pivot method
- Rotating a dart about the bust point
- Slash and spread
- Cutting and opening a pattern
- Bust point
- Apex of the bust
- Truing
- Smoothing pattern lines
Quick revision
- Darts shape fabric to the body.
- Pivot or slash-and-spread moves darts.
- Joining bodice and skirt makes a dress.
Important exam questions
Practice questions written to the PTU exam pattern for this unit's syllabus: short answers (Section A style) and long answers (Sections B and C style).
Short-answer questions
- Q1.What is a dart?
- Q2.What is the bust point?
- Q3.Name a dart manipulation method.
- Q4.What is truing?
Long-answer questions
- Q1.Explain dart manipulation with a diagram.
- Q2.Describe how a skirt and a dress pattern are developed.
Stuck on this unit?
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